SEW A SPRING / SUMMER DRESS WITHOUT A PATTERN

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Would you like to know how to make this beautiful Spring/Summer dress without a pattern? Yes, that’s right. Click here to watch my DIY Video and see how it’s done. This beautiful dress will turn heads no matter where you go. It can be worn to an afternoon lunch by the ocean, an evening dinner, or a Summer wedding. The gathered shoulders with the long silky drawstrings give it an elegant look. I love the gathered tiers and I’ve embellished them with piping. It’s very easy to make. Because you are not using a pattern, all you need are a few measurements. I love it and I’m sure that you will too.

Since this flowy dress calls for fabric that is light and drapey, I’ve chosen a beautiful Sheer Polyester Eyelash fabric that flows very nicely. Likewise, you should choose a fabric that is not heavy and is easy to work with. Here are some suggestions: Chiffon, Voile, Sheer-Nylon, Sheer-Silk, Sheer-Polyester, Lace, or Netting. For my lining, I am using a white Pongee Silk that feels and moves beautifully. The white color pops through the sheer fabric and makes the eyelash shimmer.

PREPARE THE LINING

Cut the lining in half lengthwise, on the fold. You are going to need two pieces because the back will be a little wider than the front.

I am 5″1″. So my measurements are for me and I only want my dress hem to fall at my knee. Your measurements may be quite different.

Example: My shoulder to knee measurement is 37″. I measure down 37-3/4″ My hip measurement is 43-1/2″. Add 1/2″ for ease = 44″. Divided by 4 = 11″ + 1/4″ (seam allowance). Square across for the shoulder measurement: 11-1/4″. Measure down 12″.

Square across for the underbust measurement: 11-1/4″. Measure down 8″.

Square across 11-1/2″. Measure down 8″

Square across 11-3/4″ Measure down 9″

Square across 12-1/4″. Measure your hem allowance.

Connect your horizontal lines.

Repeat the same steps for the back portion and add another quarter inch on the horizontal lines because your back is always a little bit bigger than the front.

CUT OUT YOUR LINING AND TRY IT ON

First, for the Front Lining: determine your armscye and add another extra inch, plus your seam allowance. (Example: 11″ + 1″ + 1/4″). Second, drop your shoulder 1″. Shorten the shoulder width. Move it in 2″ from the center front. Measure down the center front, 11-1/4″. Then, measure in 1/4″ and then 2″ in from the center front Neck Line.

Back Lining: Measure the armscye the same as the front. For the back opening, measure 2″ in at the shoulder. Measure down and stop 4″ from the first horizontal line.

Sew a basting stitch at the seams and try it on for fit. Make any adjustments.

USE YOUR LINING AS YOUR GUIDE TO CUT OUT YOUR BODICE SECTION

Your dress Fabric should remain 45″ to 60″ wide. Do not cut it the width of the lining.

First, lay your lining along the folded edge of your fabric and cut out your neckline. Next, use a long ruler or a yardstick to square off from the fold to the salvage edge of your dress fabric. Measure in 2″ from the salvage. Drop your ruler down 1″ at the salvage, making sure to keep it at the neckline. Mark your point and measure the length of your armscye.

Cut out your neckline, shoulder, and armhole.

DO NOT MAKE ANY OTHER CUTS YET.

Locate your first horizontal line, which should be your underbust line. Measure down for your seam allowance (1/4″ or 1/2″). Your bodice section measurements should include your shoulder seam allowance and seam allowance at your underbust.

REMOVE YOUR LINING. YOU WILL NOT NEED YOUR LINING TO CREATE THE REST OF YOUR SECTIONS.

Cut out your Front and Back bodice sections from your dress fabric. Cut across from the fold to the salvage on your dress fabric.

ATTACH THE BODICE TO THE LINING

Lay your dress fabric over your lining. Locate and match up the 1/4″ opening at the center of the neckline. Make a small triangle notch on the left side of the fold line. On both the lining and the dress fabric. Reinforce the triangle with interfacing on the LINING ONLY.

Use the longest stitch on your sewing machine to gather (or you can pleat) the shoulders of the dress fabric. Do this for both your front and back bodice. Attach them to the lining with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Finish with a serger.

ADD FASHION DETAILS IF DESIRED

I decided to add 4″ of Charmeuse to my bodice. I think this adds beautiful details. My total bodice measurement is now 16″ from shoulder to underbust.

MAKE THE CASING FOR THE DRAWSTRING

Attach the two shoulders, the front, and the back together. Create a seam allowance that is 3/4″-1″ in width. Stop 1″ from the edge of the armhole opening. Attach the seam to the lining only. Do Not Sew the seam to the fashion fabric. Do Not Sew all the way to the edge. Leave the end of the casing open about 1″.

Sew the side seams of the fashion fabric. Right side to right side. Sew the lining wrong side to the wrong side

CREATE A BIAS BINDING AND ATTACH IT

Before you attach the binding to the neck opening, create a back seam. Make sure the binding is long enough to go from the front to the back. Cut the dress and the lining along the center fold.

To create the fold in the front of the dress, first, locate the triangle notches (dress and lining). Attach the binding to the unnotched side first. Fold in and hand stitch the binding to the lining.

Next, fold the notches inwards. Attach the binding to this side. Fold under and hand stitch the binding to the lining. Attach the end of the binding to the notches by sewing across both the binding and the notch at the fold. Make sure it is flat. Bring the binding from the other side over the sewn-down end. Neatly hand stitch. Click here to watch my DIY video.

Close the back of the dress and the back of the lining separately.

Sew a binding for the armholes. You want to keep the opening at the edge of the armhole so that it forms a slit. Fold it under and attach it only to the lining. You should still have a small slit and the casing should still be open a little ways from the edge.

CREATE AND INSERT A DRAWSTRING

Make a nice drawstring or spaghetti strap that is about 20″ long or longer. Use a loop turner to insert the drawstring into the casing. Don’t go all the way to the end. Leave about 1/2″. Hold the drawstring tightly with your fingers while you pull out the turner. Stitch the drawstring to the lining. Make sure that you do not catch the dress fabric. Close up the casing.

ATTACH THE TIERS AND HEM

Now that the technical part of the dress is done, all you have to do is cut out and attach your tiers together. This is very easy to do. Follow the measurements that you used to create your lining. For aesthetics, the two middle sections should be the same width. Make sure that you add your seam allowance to the top and bottom of each section before cutting it out. Use a gathering stitch in your seam allowance, and gather your tiers to your desired measurement. I decided to separate the bodice and each tier with piping. Use your imagination. Depending on your fabric, you can embellish your dress to your liking.

The fabric I chose is very lightweight. I made a 3″ hem on my dress to add a little bit of weight to the bottom.

That’s it. I can’t wait to see what you come up with and what you create. Please make sure to post it. I know it’s going to be awesome.