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First, let me say that I love this silhouette. The circle skirt is one of my favorite silhouettes because it is flattering on any figure. It’s comfortable and it’s versatile. Meaning, it can be a mini skirt. It can be knee length or calf length. And if it’s floor length and a double-circle skirt, then you have the makings of a Wedding Dress or a Ball Gown, or a Red Carpet dress.
I made a video on my YouTube Channel that will show you what you can do with the different types of circle patterns.
Part 1 of the video series will teach you how to create different silhouettes or types of Circle Skirts. You can draft a quarter-circle pattern, which is basically an A-Line skirt. You can create a Half-Circle Skirt which is super cute and has more flare than a quarter-circle skirt. A Full-Circle Skirt is more dramatic and has even more flare. This silhouette reminds me of a vintage dress or a ballerina skirt. You can double your Full-Circle skirt pattern circle skirt pattern by cutting it twice. In Part 2, you can sew along with me while I will show you how you can double your waist measurement so that you can create either a gathered or pleated waist.
A Circle Skirt Pattern is so easy to draft. Believe it or not, we can do all of these versions with just one body measurement, and that is the waist measurement. You will need to know your desired skirt length for your desired look.
But we need the formula to work out the correct measurements for the radius which will help us create the correct waistline.
The formula that I like to use is two-thirds. In the Circle Skirt PDF, you can see how I used the two-thirds formula to create the perfect Circle Skirt.
In the illustration, I will be using thirty inches as my waist measurement. I’m going to multiply that by my formula which is two-thirds. Then I’ll divide that by the number of quarters need for my skirt pattern.
So, One (1) for the quarter skirt. Two (2) for the half circle and four (4) for the full circle skirt pattern.
Gather Your Supplies
- Pattern Paper (Dotted or Plain). Make sure it is wide enough and long enough to accommodate your desired length.
- L-Shape ruler for creating an accurate right angle
- Tape Measurer
- Rulers: (See-through ruler, curved ruler, dressmaker ruler)
- Pencil, eraser, and markers
- Muslin or White Cotton Fabric if you want to make a Toille or mock-up first
- Fashion Fabric: Make sure you have enough fabric for your desired silhouette. A short Quarter-Circle skirt will use the least amount of fabric and a floor-length, double-waist, double-circle skirt will need 4-5 yards of 60″ fabric.
- Pins
- Chalk
The Radius
Your waist measurement is your Circumference. The Radius is the measurement from the very center of the Circumference at the Diameter to the edge of the Circumference. The Radius for each Circle Skirt (Quarter, Half, Full, and Double) will be different.
Quarter-Circle Skirt
A quarter-circle skirt is basically an A-Line skirt. This skirt takes less fabric and the pattern is not cut on the fold. Cut on the Bias. You only need to cut one piece unless you want to manipulate your design. For instance, you can add side seams, pockets, and a center back seam and zipper.
The first step is to create a right angle. I use my L-Shape ruler to do this because it is the most accurate. If you are going to design a long skirt, you can use a yardstick to extend your lines. Once you have your right angle, mark the corner as A. Next, mark points B on your horizontal and vertical lines. In order to know the measurement from A to B, you need to know the radius for the quarter circle skirt (See the illustration in the Circle Skirt PDF). Using the two-thirds formula, use your waist, multiply your waist measurement by 2, multiply 1 x 3, and divide by 3. This will give you your radius for the quarter-circle skirt. Measure from A and mark the point as B on your horizontal line and your vertical lines. This is your radius. Once you have the radius, you can create your waist. Create a curve from B to B by holding your measuring tape at A and swinging from B to B and marking points along the way. Notice that the waist measurement is your full waist measurement.
Now determine your Point C. This is going to be the length that you want your skirt to be. Create your curve the same way that you did with your waist.
Now you can add your seam allowance along the side seams and waistline and cut out your pattern.
Half-Circle Skirt
The half-circle skirt has more volume than the quarter-circle skirt. The pattern is cut on the fold. Cut on the Bias. You only need to cut one piece unless you want to manipulate your design. You can cut your pattern in half and cut one on the fold and two off the fold. Drafting the pattern is the same as with the quarter-circle. Start by drawing a right angle on your pattern paper. Mark the corner A. The two-thirds formula calculation is slightly different. Use 2 x 3 and divide by 6. This is your radius. Mark point B and draw in your waist curve. Notice that the measurement is half of your waist measurement. Determine your skirt length and mark points C. Place a FOLD LINE on one end. Add your seam allowance along the sides and waistline and cut out your pattern.
Full-Circle Skirt
The Full-circle skirt gives you lots of volume and movement. It is a beautiful skirt whether it is short or long. The pattern is cut twice on the fold. Cut on the Bias. You need to cut two pieces on the fold unless you want to manipulate your design. For instance, you can draft two pattern pieces and cut one in half to create two back halves with side seams and a center back seam. Start by drawing a right angle on your pattern paper. Mark the corner A. The two-thirds formula calculation is slightly different. Use 4 x 3 and divide by 12. This is your radius. Mark point B and draw in your waist curve. Notice that the waist is now one-quarter of your waist measurement. Determine your Point C. Place your pattern pieces on the fold for two side seams and a side zipper. Or cut one of the pattern pieces in half. Add your seam allowance along the sides and waistline. Cut out your pattern.
Double-Circle Skirt
A double-circle skirt is the most dramatic. It is double the volume and twice the movement. You can create the most beautiful wedding dresses with this pattern. You will need to make sure that you have plenty of fashion fabric for this pattern. The pattern is cut twice on the fold. But you will need to double your folds (watch my video to see how it is done).
Start by drawing a right angle on your pattern paper. Mark the corner A. Divide the radius from the Full-Circle Skirt pattern by 2.
EXAMPLE: If you started with a waist circumference of 30″ your radius would have been 5″. 5 divided by 2 = 2.5″.
Mark point B and draw in your waist curve. Notice that the waist is now one-eight of your waist measurement. Determine your skirt length and mark your point C. Mark your PLACE ON FOLD on one side and your seam allowance on the other side.
Place your pattern piece on the folds. Put your PLACE ON FOLD on the one large fold and your seam allowance on the two folds. Cut out your pattern. Mark the seam allowance side with chalk or a pin. You will have one circle. Cut up one seam allowance to open the circle.
PLEASE NOTE THAT YOUR SEAM ALLOWANCE WILL BE INCORPORATED INTO YOUR CENTERFOLD. This can be your waist ease. If your seam allowance is 1/2″ you will have an extra inch in the waist.
Double your fabric again and put your PLACE ON FOLD on the one large fold. This time DO NOT place your seam allowance on the two folds, Move it away from the folds so that you can cut two pieces at once.
Now you can create all four circle-skirt patterns and use your imagination and design skills to sew beautiful circle skirts.
Next, in Part 2, I will show you how to draft a full-circle skirt with a double waist.
